Hairless Guinea Pig Care

Cages Size:
Must be at least 18x18 inches (45x45 cm) and 12-15 inches (30-40 cm) high for one cavy.  Bigger is better so try to provide a cage that is the biggest as possible.  CavyCages has great cages that you could make at a very low cost. The bottom must be solid as it causes foot problems to your cavy so make sure it has a solid bottom floor. Also, avoid using an aquarium due to poor air circulation. There are cages with pullout trays that are easy to clean and maintain.

The Cubes and Coroplast cages are easy to clean just check out the website above. You will need to provide your guinea pig with a large enough proper cage with a solid bottom floor. You can now purchase a "C&C Cage Kit" online in the U.S., if you'd like all the planning done for you for a wonderful exciting cage. These costs are to help support the CavyCages website.  Another good cage is called the “Guinea Habitat” that is like the C&C cage but it is already built.  Most guinea pig cages that are in pet stores are too small for them.  Your guinea pigs especially if hairless should be housed INDOORS only. They may however be outdoors occasionally if weather permits. You should provide adequate shelter at all times. Your guinea pigs should not be in direct sunlight. They can be in a family room, but not with too much noise as it can stress them out.  

Cleaning cage:
Check your cage for soiled bedding every day, and spot clean as necessary. Clean your cages
weekly and wash it with warm soapy water. You may sterilize your cage at least once a month with a 1:10 mixture of bleach to water (mix in a spray bottle). Let it sit 20 min., then wash thoroughly with soapy water. For the urine deposits, soak tray in white vinegar and water for about 20 min and wash thoroughly.   For weekly cleaning of our cages we use CITRA-SOLV and then rinse thoroughly.  You can also buy a small bottle of CITRA-SOLV at Whole Foods or possibly anywhere else where they may have it.

Also a simple and very effective cleaner is a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water. You can buy a spray bottle at the dollar store and mix your own solution. Not only does vinegar have disinfectant properties, but it breaks down hard urine stains as well. Should you have extremely hard urine stains on the cage, saturate it with full strength vinegar and agitate. Rinse well.  We do not recommend using any harsh chemicals as this can be toxic to your guinea pigs especially when they are walking over wet fresh cleaned surfaces.  Make sure anything you use around your guinea pigs is non-toxic, organic and safe. Do not use anything that is or may be toxic for your guinea pigs. This may be any household items, plants, chemicals and etc. They can potentially ingest these toxic substances and it can kill your guinea pigs. 

Bedding:
Line their cage with at least a day old newspaper and or several weeks old if possible. Fresh
newspaper is toxic to guinea pigs. You may layer with white pine shavings that is kiln dried. You must not house them on cedar bedding as this is toxic to guinea pigs. They must also not be housed on raw pine shavings.  If it is pine it should be kiln-dried pine shavings.  You can usually buy large quantities of kiln dried pine shavings at any farm center, or feed store for a
reasonable price.  A good brand of bedding is a bedding called “Natures” that you
can purchase from a feed store. It is a kiln-dried dust free pine shavings.  Another brand of
shavings that you can use is “Americas Choice.”  

Cedar is toxic to guinea pigs, and other small animals. Cedar and raw pine shavings contain
phenols(aromatic oils) which will contribute to many health problems such as liver disease and  respiratory infections. Do not use saw dust which can also be inhaled and cat litter as your guinea pig may eat it.  It is completely normal for guinea pigs to occasionally eat a little bit of  their bedding, but make sure they have plenty of Timothy or Orchard hay at all times so they don't always  eat too much bedding. We suggest you to use Aspen, CareFresh, and CareFRESH Ultra (100% dust-free white version of regular Carefresh, with the same absorbency), Yesterday's News (Paper products) and or Woody Pet litter. You may layer CareFresh or grass Hay over the pine shavings, which would reduce phenols from escaping.  The pine bedding should not smell resinous and make sure it is not too dusty.  If it does buy another brand, but always make sure it is kiln-dried. Spot clean your cage everyday and look for soiled bedding.  Some people use fleece as bedding and it can be washed as needed. Clean the whole cage spotless and place new fresh bedding every 3-4 days or as necessary. Hairless guinea pigs can be quite messy sometimes and they eat a lot more so they need extra cage cleaning even sometimes much more than haired guinea pigs especially in the summertime.

Location:
Hairless guinea pigs should be housed INDOORS!  They may however be outdoors
occasionally if weather permits.  You should provide adequate shelter at all times.  Your guinea pig/pigs should not be in direct sunlight or where the temperatures can rise to extreme
measures.  Keep their cage away from any drafts and direct sunlight. Although, guinea pigs
need 12-14 hours of light daily, you may provide artificial light if necessary.  Make sure to keep your pigs in a calm area with some family activity going on, but away from any loud speakers and TV or any loud noises where they are easily frightened and can be stressed.

Temperature:
The temperature should range from 65 to 75 degrees F (18 to 24 degrees C).  Anything 85
degrees F (29.4 C) over your guinea pig may likely die from heat stroke.  Avoid high humidity always.

Food bowls:
Use food crocks that are attached to the cage.  It also minimizes tipping.  You may use a heavy food dish that is not too deep.

Water:
Provide fresh clean water for your guinea pigs every day.  Get a water bottle with a ball tip.  KW Cages or "Morton Jones Cages & Supplies" has great water bottles and supplies for guinea pigs.  Attach the water bottle to the outside of the cage and make sure they can reach it.  You may also add Vita C to their water from KW Cages. It is pure Ascorbic Acid that is water-soluble pure vitamin C supplement in powder form.  You can also get pure Ascorbic Acid water-soluble pure vitamin C supplement from Traders Joe.  Add 1/4 teaspoon per gallon (4.5 liters) of drinking water, which is what breeders usually do with their large herds.  Change water daily, and clean their water bottles weekly or as necessary.  Their water should not be tap or distilled water and water should be changed daily.  The chorine in tap water inactivates Vitamin C and even in light if it is given with it.  Avoid any water high in minerals and calcium as that could lead them to easily get stones etc.  The water bottles should also be washed and kept clean at all times to prevent algae buildup.

Salt, Mineral stones and Woodchip/wood chews:
You may hang a salt lick spool but it is not really necessary or essential in their diet and they
may drink large amounts of water.  Some people have different opinions about salt licks and
pros/cons about them.  Some people only provide it to them in the summer time or only once in a guinea pigs lifetime.  While it would make them thirsty and increase their fluid intake, it is still probably not a good idea to provide it to them.  I haven’t provided it to them in years and they do well without it.  Do not give your guinea pigs any mineral wheels/stones as they are not recommend for guinea pigs because they don't need the extra minerals in it and it is also not an essential part of their diet as pet stores lead you to believe.  They could also possibly contribute to stones and etc.  Their guinea pig pellets are well balanced with all of what they need as long as you are feeding them high quality pellets. Most of the fruit trees are safe, such as fresh apple tree branches.  Check out the "List of the Poisonous Plants" page.

You can give them a wooden hidey hole in the cage for the guinea pigs to gnaw on.  This will
usually help alleviate the need to bite.  Sometimes the wooden 'chew sticks' are ignored so they are usually useless.  A wooden tunnel or wooden hidey hole is best.  The wood chews is not really necessary as they are provided with Timothy hay to keep their teeth in proper wear
condition to prevent malocclusion as it grinds up their molars.

Hiding place:
You may provide them with an old tissue box, shoe box and an Igloo sold at Petco or at Ferret Store is great for them to hide, sleep and feel secure in. You may provide them a wooden house to go in too.  You may also get them lambswool sacks for them to sleep in that you can make or buy.  They also like pouches to sleep in.

Supplies and, Equipments Accessories:
•        A Scale designed for small animals: To check their growth rate
•        Nail clippers (you can use regular human/baby small nail clippers): keep their nails nice and trimmed, but don't cut too close to the quick. If you accidentally cut too close you may apply corn starch and or wheat to stop the bleeding.  Their nails should be neatly trimmed about once every 4-6 weeks.
•        Provide them with safe toys, and a playpen.
•        Store food in plastic storage bins not metal as that will contribute to Vitamin C loss.
•        Thermometer designed for small animals.
•        Techno-Optics SearchSkope and Techno-Optics PetSkope

• Critical Care: for sick guinea pigs from Oxbow Hay Company or KW Cages.  Great to
  keep just in case for emergencies.  
• Ferret or rabbit litter box
• Playpen
• Heavy ceramic crock for guinea pig food
• PCV pipes that have no sharp edges
• Kitchen weighing scales-Weighting guinea pigs
• Simethicone Infant Drops brand name Mylicon for bloat-gas Use about 1/2 cc or preferably just give fresh grass.  
•  Pedialyte or Gatorade for diarrhea or toxemia

Human Nail or baby clippers: Toenails or teeth

• Styptic powder or Flour for stopping bleeding of the quick
• Acidophilus or yogurt with active cultures for tummy problems or Probiotic paste
• Vegetable oil for cleaning ears.
• A syringe for feeding
• Nutrical for increasing calories for a pig that isn't eating very well
• Teramycin eye ointment or natural Vitamin E oil for eye infections and or eye injuries
• Saline
• GNC Vitamin C liquid or Trader Joe's pure Vitamin C crystal powder
• Needle less Syringe 1cc
• Ivermectin or the Ivermectin horse paste (1.87%): For most parasitical disorders. Make sure you have the correct dosages.  They can be treated at least once a year for prevention.  I do not use this unless it is a last resort if natural remedies no not work.
• Q-Tips/Cotton Pads: To apply stuff topically
• Rubber and surgical gloves for cleaning and handling ill animals respectively

I use some of these things to try to help support the guinea pig until the vet will see them.  This information that is above in no way takes place of the veterinarian’s recommendations.  Please ask your Vet before giving any of the products listed above as it may be possible to hurt the guinea pigs if given in excess and etc.  Be careful when you syringe feed your guinea pigs as it may be possible for it to aspirate into the lungs and the guinea pig may suffocate.  Use a spoon instead to give anything to your guinea pig.  

 
DO NOT give your guinea pigs any exercise wheels or exercise balls as they are a major health hazard.  Buy a transport crate such as ones that you can buy from KW Cages or a regular cat carrier that you can buy from any pet store or anywhere as you will need it to transport your guinea pigs to the Vets, cavy shows and etc.

Hay:
You may use a hay bin/hay rack attached to the outside or inside of the cage.  Be careful with
some of those hay racks they sell.  Some guinea pigs and babies may get their heads stuck in
them.  Give them unlimited grass hay source of timothy, or orchard.  Timothy hay is the best
and should not only be provided to the older guinea pigs but all guinea pigs at all ages 24/7 as it is essential in the guinea pigs diet everyday at all times.  We feed Orchard Hay. Hay provides a good source of fiber, protein, gut motility and roughage.  It is also used in grinding down the molars. Give them hay that is fresh, green, and fragrant.  Timothy hay is recommended for guinea pigs over the age of 6 months and it should be their main stay of their diet. They should have access to Timothy hay 24 hours a day.  Alfalfa cubes or alfalfa hay is recommended for young/growing cavies under 6 months, and pregnant or lactating/nursing mothers or malnourished(under weight) adults should receive alfalfa but as always not in excess. Alfalfa is too rich in calcium so it should only be given to adult cavies occasionally as a treat as they could develop stones so be careful giving it in excess just as everything. Don't give excess alfalfa as most guinea pig feeds contain alfalfa already. Veggies, even their water that are fed to your guinea pigs also may contain calcium etc. Always feed alfalfa hay in moderation as they can contribute the formation of bladder stones.  Alfalfa hay is given only as a supplement at very limited quantities to the diet of particular guinea pigs mentioned above so it should not replace grass hay, which is Timothy hay that should be provided to them 24/7 at all times.  You may buy hay from your local pet stores(but it isn’t always that fresh, green and fragrant), farms and feed stores are the best places to get it at.  You may also order hay, and other guinea pig items from Kleenmama's Hayloft. Give fresh unlimited grass hay daily, and clean up wet soiled hay every day.

Pellets:
Feed fresh dye-free plain high quality premium guinea pig pellets twice a day or provide it to
them at all times.  Throw out any old leftover pellets and give them some fresh pellets always.  You may provide them with pellets at all times including timothy hay as they are hairless and have a higher metabolism so they eat more to maintain their constant body temperature.

The guinea pig pellets must be fortified with vitamin C.  Vitamin C IS ESSENTIAL TO A GUINEA PIGS DIET!  Don't buy more than you would use in a month or so as the Vitamin C disintegrates after 90 days and during the storage period also after milling.  Store guinea pig pellets in a dark dry cool place and in a plastic bin.  If you buy too much pellets you can store it in the refrigerator or preferably in the freezer to preserve freshness and Vitamin C content.  Always check for freshness of your pellets in the "best if used by date" on the bag.  The guinea pigs should be fed pure guinea pig pellets not any guinea pig "mixes."  They must not contain any hulled seeds, nuts, sunflower seeds, or any colored bits and dried fruits as they can be a chocking hazard to your guinea pigs.  Also, they may be high in fat and are not a very nutritional diet for them.

Your guinea pigs should be fed pure guinea pig pellets along with Timothy hay or Orchard, vegetables, herbs, greens, and fruits.  You may give them fruits only occasionally as a treat.  Try to avoid guinea pig pellets that have animal byproducts and ones where their primitive ingredients are corn.  Avoid brands which put chemical preservatives like ethoxyquin, BHA, and BHT in the food.  This is a preservative usually used to preserve animal meat or fat. Check for foods that have “animal fat” listed in the ingredients. This is most likely not a quality food as your pet is an herbivore and would never eat animal products in the wild.  Do not give any dairy or meat products. Do not give rabbit pellets which do not have Vitamin C essential to guinea pigs and some may contain antibiotics that are toxic to guinea pigs.  Avoid brands with any type of chemicals.   Some brands of guinea pig food are used for lab animals which do not live long healthy lives. Guinea pigs can live long healthy lives on a diet of quality grass hay(Timothy hay), fresh grass, pure dried grasses, wild plants(only for guinea pigs), herbs, fruits and vegetables.  Their natural food is grasses so it would be a good idea to provide it to them and everything else listed here.  

If you are feeding guinea pig pellets that already has alfalfa hay/meal in it then there is no need at all to feed extra alfalfa hay. Too much alfalfa is not good and can lead to stones.
If you are feeding a timothy based only feed such as  Kleenmama's pellets then they can get a little bit of alfalfa hay ONLY once in a while as a treat.  Pregnant/nursing pigs are the ones that should get a bit more alfalfa hay or just an alfalfa based feed.  

A timothy based feed is recommended for guinea pigs over the age of 6 months and an alfalfa based feed for guinea pigs under 6 months also pregnant or lactating nursing mothers that you can purchase from  Kleenmama's Hayloft.  We HIGHLY recommend  Kleenmama's Hayloft guinea pig food and products for your guinea pigs.  

We will not be recommending Oxbow’s guinea pig pellets due to the incidents of bladder stones.  We recommend  Kleenmama's Hayloft pellets as it is lower in calcium and sodium.   

There is also another good food called Pretty Pet Natural Gold Guinea Pig Food.  Your guinea pigs should also be fed pure guinea pig pellets along with Timothy hay, vegetables, herbs, greens, and fruits.

Grass, herbs and other plants are also the best cavy foods too.  Their natural diet should
consist of fresh grasses, roots and other plant material.  Fresh grass and wild plants are the
best foods but good quality hay, dried grass, fresh grass, vegetables and grass based pellets
are the healthiest for your guinea pig.  We have a pig garden where we grow all kinds of guinea pig food such as grass, vegetables, herbs, and wild plants.  You can order fresh dried herbs and plants for guinea pigs at Old Time Herbs.  You can get some seeds to grow some herbs, dried herbs and wild plants at Mountain Rose Herbs.  Most seeds for herbs are from Horizon Herbs.  

Vitamin C:
Natural Vitamin C is extremely important as they cannot manufacture or store their own Vitamin C.  Vitamin C will be provided to them when giving fresh pure guinea pig pellets with stabilized Vitamin C, grass, and vegetables daily.  They will also be given fruits with vitamin C as a treat occasionally.  You may give them one 50mg Vitamin C tablets called Daily C Tablets from Oxbow Hay Company or the Ferret Store if you want to be sure you give them their adequate proper amount daily.  Many guinea pig feeds contain Vitamin C but they may not eat the recommended amount daily so it must be given by feeding them greens, grass, vegetables daily and fruits as their treats in moderation occasionally.  Adult guinea pigs should receive 10mg-30mg/kg of Vitamin C daily.  It is given to prevent scurvy.  Nursing/lactating, pregnant sows and sick/ill guinea pigs should receive double the amount of Vitamin C daily.  Vitamin C breaks down very easily in light so it must be supplied fresh at all times.  Vitamin C disintegrates rapidly after 90 days and during the storage period.  Store your pure Vitamin C in a dry dark cool place such as a closet or in the refrigerator/freezer and in a plastic container.  Vitamin C may be provided in the form of supplements but it must be pure Vitamin C/Ascorbic Acid.

Do NOT give them any type of Vitamin drops that you find in pet stores to them as they may
contain too many other additional vitamins and minerals.  In excess it can cause a lot of health problems.  These Vitamin drops can also be potentially toxic to them.  They also do not like the taste of the water with the Vitamin C drops and they may not drink as much water as they are supposed to drink.

Also, DO NOT give your guinea pigs any "multivitamins" at all. When you are feeding any wild greens such as grass and dandelion greens make sure it has not been sprayed with any
chemicals and or frequented by any other species of animals such as dogs, cats and birds etc.  

Vegetables and Fruits:
Provide them with fresh variety of vegetables high in vitamin C DAILY and fruits high in Vitamin C only as treats occasionally.  You may provide veggies twice or so a day. Veggies should make up to 10-15% of their diet so it should be given in small quantities.  Organic fruits and vegetables is best fed.  Give them about a cup of vegetables per day and everyday, which contains an essential extra source of Vitamin C and other nutrients.  We feed our cavies with a variety of organic vegetables.  Give them a variety of vegetates and fruits as treats in moderation such as: parsley, romaine lettuce, spinach, kale, Cilantro, carrots, Chard, seedless oranges, pears and etc.  Make sure you take out the seeds, stems and pits as they could be a choking hazard.  Also, any possible leaves such as tomato leaves and stalks as it is toxic to guinea pigs but celery leaves are okay.  Fruits should be given in small quantities to guinea pigs only as treats occasionally only every 2 or so days not every day as guinea pigs could get diabetes if given in excess.  Feed carrots in moderation as it is said to cause liver problems and diabetes in excess.  Do not give them too many sugary fruits such as apples, pears etc and certainly not every day.  Do not give iceberg lettuce, which doesn't have much nutritional value and can result in loose stools if provided in excess.  They can be given pesticide-free grass, clover, and dandelion greens. Rinse all vegetables, fruits and etc.
thoroughly before offering it to them.

They should receive Vitamin C in their regular diet daily, which veggies, grass, greens and
fruits contain as well as their guinea pig pellets.  It is best to give them high quality veggies and greens daily that are high in Vitamin C and low in calcium.  Many guinea pig feeds contain Vitamin C but they may not eat the recommended amount daily so it must be given by feeding them greens, and vegetables daily.  Fruits also may be given occasionally only as a treat.  Make sure to remove any uneaten veggies and fruits as they may spoil.  Do not give many cruciferous vegetables frequently such as cabbage, broccoli, collards, etc. as they may cause gas so only give it to them sparingly and infrequently.  Introduce vegetables, fruits, greens and slowly as to avoid digestive upsets.  Once they are introduced to them you can provide them with a variety.  Variety as with moderation is the key to maintaining healthy happy guinea pigs.  We wash our guinea pigs fresh foods with a Veggie Cleanse if it is not organic. This is to get rid of all the pesticides and etc. on the fresh veggies and fruits before offering to our guinea pigs. Feed everything in moderation.  

Give them about a cup of vegetables per day and everyday, which contains an essential extra
source of Vitamin C and other nutrients.  Give them a variety of vegetates and fruits as treats in moderation such as: parsley, romaine lettuce, spinach, kale, Cilantro, broccoli, carrots with tops,
seedless oranges, pears and etc.  Make sure you take out the seeds, stems and pits as they
could be a choking hazard..  Vegetables should account to 10-15% of their daily intake.  Do
NOT give too many vegetables as it may be possible for your guinea pig to get diarrhea. Most people like to feed carrots to their guinea pigs because they seem to enjoy it the most.  This is true, most guinea pigs love carrots. However, too many carrots can lead to an overdose of Vitamin A and can be toxic. The key is to feed each type of food in moderation.  Most guinea pigs will avoid foods that are bad for them but to be sure check out the guinea pig shopping list or this other guinea pig shopping list. Fruits should only be fed as a treat, because they have very high sugar content. Offer pesticide-free grass, wheat grass, clover, dandelion greens, corn husks and silk, which will be very appreciated by your pet.

Wild plants such as clover, plantain, golden rod, cleavers, yarrow and dandelion in a balanced salad - Dandelion is a diuretic and can make their droppings soft if fed in excess.

You may be able to find some of these at the organic/grocery stores or farmers markets.  Wheat grass in the organic form is best fed to your guinea pigs.  It has been known to keep herbivorous animals alive indefinitely.  Watch out for acidic foods like tomato and apple fed in excess.  These can cause sores around the mouth if fed too often.  Variety is the key- try different vegetables each week to see what your pig likes or doesn’t like; each pig is likely to have different preferences.  Do not feed too many cruciferous vegetables such as cabbage, collards, and etc as this is linked to bloats due to gas.  Gas is a killer.  Their natural diet should consist of fresh grasses and other plant material(not toxic to guinea pigs and pesticide free).  Fresh grass and wild plants are the best foods but good quality Timothy hay, dried grass, fresh grass, vegetables and grass based pellets are the healthiest for your guinea pigs.  

And don't forget to print and keep a copy of the " Guinea Pig Shopping List.”  
Also check out: "My Favorite Vegetables and Fruits". And also: Vegetable/Fruit Charts for
vitamin C, oxalic acid, and calcium content of many foods.

Treats/Fruits:
You may give them guinea pig treats sold at pet stores, at Ferret Store and at Drs.
Foster&Smith and etc but most treats from pet stores etc. are not recommend as some may
even contain seeds in husks, nuts, colored bits, dyed bits etc.  Most treats from the pet stores
are like junk food for guinea pigs that contains sugar, etc and are not very nutritional.  Feed
treats in small amounts and or as a reward or just because you love them.  The best treats for
guinea pigs are fresh fruits such as apples, pears, oranges, and etc.  You may give them fresh fruits and veggies as treats also such as apples, pears, oranges, carrots, peaches, strawberries, pineapple, papaya, blueberries, carrots, and celery that is also a good source of water when traveling.

You must make sure to remove the seeds, leaves, stems and pits.  Most pet stores sell those
honey stick type treats with hulled nuts and stuff, which is not good for them and can be a
chocking hazard.  Do Not give any of those commercial colorful treats that are marketed for
guinea pigs such as the yogurt drops which can even be detrimental to their health.  They will be consuming these empty calories which contain fat, sugars and even excess calcium and can result in decreased consumption of the nutritious foods they really need.  Fruits should be given in small quantities to guinea pigs only as treats occasionally only every 2 or so days not every day as guinea pigs could get diabetes, diarrhea if given in excess.  Do not give them too many sugary fruits such as apples, pears etc. and certainly not every day.

Best all natural Guinea Pig Diet:
Their natural diet should consist of fresh grasses, roots and other plant material that is for
guinea pigs.  Fresh grass and wild plants are the best foods but good quality hay, dried grass,
fresh grass, vegetables, fruits, and all natural grass based pellets are the healthiest for your
guinea pig.  Grass, herbs and other plants are also the best cavy foods too.  Be careful when
you feed any plants, herbs and or wild plants.  Be sure to pick edible fresh plants for cavies that are healthy looking and do not have any fungus spots or mold.  They should not be sprayed with any type of chemicals, pesticides, fertilizers, preservatives, etc and frequented by any other species of animals such as dogs, cats and birds etc. They should also be away from exhaust fumes.  Be sure you know what you are picking as cavy food before you feed it.  You can feed wild plants such as clover, plantain, golden rod, cleavers, yarrow and dandelion in a balanced salad.  Their favorite is Plantain, Red Clover(or other clovers in limited quantities), Nettle, Cleavers and Yarrow(dried good food when the plant is young and tender).  You can feed dried herbs, but fresh is better.  

Be careful for mold in the plants of the clover family because it is particularly toxic.  

Here is a valuable site for more information about herbs HERE
There is some holistic guinea pig information at Holistic Pet Care

Skin Care/Grooming:
As long as you keep their environment clean and dry they will be clean.  You can bathe them with Dr. Bronner's Magic Pure Castile liquid soap or any of their soaps for your guinea pigs.  For their skin you can use organic Extra Organic Virgin Raw Coconut Oil, Virgin Olive oil or pure organic Aloe Vera.  You can wipe them when their skin is flaky and dry with organic baby wipes that contains aloe.  Baldwin’s need to be bathed more often than skinny pigs because they have no hair at all and they can get very oily.  Dirt, dust and everything will get on your Baldwins so be sure to bathe them more frequently than your skinny pigs. They also are prone to getting whiteheads. We use and highly recommend Gorgeous Guineas Skin Care products.

Health:

Skinny pigs and Baldwin's are susceptible to some of the same ailments as haired pigs. You can also find more information here: Guinea Pigs Care, Health and Medical Guide, Peter Gurney's Guinea Pig Health Guide and many other valuable web sites on the web. Cavies Galore is also a great website with lots of great info and you can post in the forums they have there.  You will get great advice from many other cavy knowledgeable people and breeders.  Another great website with valuable medical information is Guinea Lynx.

You must provide veterinary care regularly.  They must be provided with Veterinary care when especially needed if the guinea pig has an ailment, injury or illness that you are not able to care for properly by yourself.  Be sure to find a competent knowledgeable exotics Vet that is experienced in treating guinea pigs and possibly holistic.

Guinea pigs are social herd animals that enjoy the company of another guinea pig of the same sex.  It is a common myth that two male guinea pigs will fight.  Rather it depends on the personality of each individual guinea pig than sex, age etc. Two males are more likely to fight usually only when females are around or in the same cage with them.  Most guinea pigs will great along great and will enjoy each others company of having a cage companion to be with and love.  This is to insure a happy and healthy life for your guinea pigs.  Your guinea pigs will still bond with you even if you have paired up two and even three guinea pigs housed together in the same cage.  Haired guinea pigs or haired Skinny/Baldwin hairless gene carriers will even go great housed together with hairless guinea pigs and they may even cuddle for extra warmth.  The best possible match is usually between two babies/young pigs or an adult and a baby/young pig. Adults can also be compatible as long as they are introduced properly.

If you consider getting a male and female together be sure to neuter the male if he is going to
be housed with the female.  All neuters/spays may carry risks for guinea pigs so be sure your
Vet has experience in altering guinea pigs.  Otherwise, separate the male and female in
separate cages especially when the female is in heat(estrus cycle).  If they are in separate
cages you can put the cages next to each other where they can only see each other, say hello
and possibly touch noses.

For sick guinea pigs:
You should properly get a diagnosis from your exotics knowledgeable guinea pig Vet to find out the cause of the ailments.  We also highly recommend getting “Critical Care” for your sick guinea pigs that you could buy from Oxbow Hay Company or without a vet prescription from KW Cages.  There is an excellent natural antibiotic called Vibactra and Vibactra Plus that we have used on our guinea pigs and highly recommend it. It is good to keep on hand for emergencies if your guinea pig gets sick.

Our guinea pigs are treated in a holistic manner using the herbal health remedies and or homeopathic remedies.  We are also trying to find a good holistic or homeopathic Vet for our guinea pigs.  We also recommend that you find the best knowledgeable guinea pig Vet that you can find that is possibly holistic and or homeopathic if possible. Any antibiotics/drugs that the Vet prescribes to your guinea pigs can possibly kill them. Drugs/antibiotics can be very hard on guinea pigs.  Do lots of research about the specific antibiotics/drugs before you let your Vet use them or give them for your guinea pigs.  Some commonly prescribed drugs/antibiotics for cats and dogs can potentially kill or badly hurt your guinea pigs.  

Most of the time your Vet won’t even mention that your guinea pig needs probiotics because all antibiotics/drugs kill the good beneficial bacteria in the gut that your guinea pig needs to thrive.  The probiotics would be given an hour or two after administering the antibiotic although we do not recommend antibiotics unless absolutely necessary as a last resort.  We really don’t recommend antibiotics at the Vet if you can treat them naturally. We would only recommend antibiotics as a last resort if nothing works to save your guinea pig/s.  If your guinea pig/s is seriously ill and can’t wait you should get to the Vet if need be, but if you can treat them naturally you should try that option first.  

Quarantine any new guinea pigs that you bring home for 2-3 weeks even if they look healthy as guinea pigs can hide their sickness/illness so well. This is to insure that you do not introduce any parasites and or illness to your other guinea pigs that you have.

Most importantly DO NOT listen to any pet stores advice as most are not very knowledgeable about guinea pigs and will provide you with the wrong information about their proper care, health and etc.  Some will even recommend the wrong products for guinea pigs.  Even some Vets can also not be very knowledgeable so be sure to find a good competent exotics guinea pig vet that is experienced in treating guinea pigs. Go to Seagull 's search engine for a list of Vets in the U.S. and in the future it may include other Vets from other countries.